Docked at Busan Maritime University, the Rainbow Warrior II was the headquarters for
a team of Korean Federation for Environment Movement (KFEM) and
Greenpeace activists.They issued a joint statement calling for a national ban on the
trade of whale meat and are campaigning to raise public awareness
about the state of Korea’s whale population before the 57th meeting
of the International Whaling Commission that will be held in Ulsan
from May 27 to June 24.
Although South Korea observes the International Whaling
Commission’s moratorium on commercial whaling, and has also
prohibited the hunting of dolphins and porpoises, there is a legal
loophole that allows for whales to be taken and sold as an
incidental by-catch of regular commercial fishing. If a whale is
ensnared in a fisherman’s net, then he has the legal right to sell
the meat of the dead whale for local consumption.
Since the capture of a whale is an uncommon occurrence, such
scarcity drives up the prices of the meat and catching a whale is
nicknamed as a “lottery of the sea.” A dead whale can be sold for
$50,000 to $100,000. Some whales may be “accidentally” caught when
such large amounts of money can be made.
Sources indicate that approximately 100 whales are caught as
by-catch each year. The whale and dolphin meat is sold though
restaurants scattered throughout the country, many of which are
located in the southeastern city of Ulsan.

Whale meat for sale at the Jinhae Cherry Blossom Festival
(Photo © James Card)
Whale and dolphin meat is
also distributed through a nationwide network of food vendors that
set up tent eateries at regional festivals. Although whale meat was
not a traditional food of Koreans in ancient times, recently it has
developed into a faddish delicacy. Ulsan City has released a report stating that South Korea
consumes 150 tons of whale meat annually, with 80 percent being
consumed in Ulsan.
The Rainbow Warrior crew and KFEM members recently completed an
11 day survey of whales and dolphins in Korean waters. They departed
from Incheon and sailed down the west coast, circumnavigated Jeju
Island and worked their way to the eastern port city of Pohang.
Common and bottlenose dolphins were sighted, along with finless
and Dall’s porpoise and one minke whale, the most populous of whales
near the Korean peninsula. Libby Eyre, an Australian marine
biologist leading the survey, said she had expected to see more
marine mammals.
In the middle of the night, the Rainbow Warrior departed Busan
for Ulsan. Although it is one of Korea’s largest cities with a
population of approximately one million people, it isn’t even
included in the Lonely Planet 5th edition travel guide to Korea.

(Photo ©Greenpeace/Lorette Dorreboom)
Massive industrialization has transformed the Ulsan
area into a bleak landscape plagued with air pollution and water and
soil contamination. It is home to hundreds of chemical companies
including the big players like Dupont, BASF, SK, LG, and Samsung.
The area is the country’s largest supplier of non-ferrous metals,
and dotting the industrial zone are other factories specializing in
electronics, machinery, cement and steel processing. That evening among the crew, there was concern about news that a
group of pro-whaling fishermen planned to mobilize a flotilla of
boats. They would attempt to blockade the port and prevent the
Greenpeace flagship from entering Ulsan Bay. The Korean fishermen
contended that whales were depleting the local fisheries and
consuming squid stocks. One member of the pro-whaling faction said
Greenpeace was disrespecting his hometown, the historical epicenter
of the Korean whaling industry.
Petroglyphs at the Bangu-dae archaeological site near Ulsan
depict 46 images of whales and of human figures hunting them with
harpoons, lines and boats. These rock carvings are estimated to have
been created between 6,000 and 1,000 BC. Other than those early
engravings, there are few historical footnotes of Korea’s whaling
history.
Russian and Japanese whalers based themselves out of Ulsan in the
late 1800s. Korea’s modern whaling industry was short-lived,
starting in 1946 and lasting until the IWC commercial whaling
moratorium was imposed in 1986.
Jim Wickens, Greenpeace oceans campaigner, emphasized that
Greenpeace/KFEM and South Korea fishermen share the same concerns in
protecting the sea ecosystem to insure healthy fisheries.
“We have spoken to fishermen along the south and west coast and
they feel the dolphins and whales are disappearing and they want
them to come back. We feel very strongly that there is no scientific
evidence that whales are destroying the fish population," said
Wickens. "It’s more of a matter of overfishing, pollution, and toxic
threats that are destroying the fisheries and the whales and
dolphins are being made as scapegoats.”
By eight o’clock the next morning the Rainbow Warrior was along
South Korea’s most industrialized coast. Crew members stood on deck
with steaming cups of coffee and observed the hazy shoreline covered
with squat petrochemical tanks, pulp mills, numerous smokestacks and
nonferrous metal refineries. Although we sailed a mile offshore, a
pungent chemical stench wafted in the sea breeze and everyone
noticed the foul smell emanating from the coastal industrial
complex.

Captain Pete Wilcox supervises the docking of the Rainbow
Warrior II at Ulsan Harbor. (Photo © James Card)
Approaching the harbor entrance was the sprawling
Hyundai shipyard and farther in the horizon, the windshields of new
cars glinted from the Hyundai auto plant. The Greenpeace crew was
not greeted by a naval blockade of Korean whalers but by a police
boat holding a gaggle of Korean journalists photographing the coming
of the Rainbow Warrior. Local law enforcement authorities were
alerted of a possible demonstration by the pro-waling group and
three buses of riot police were stationed outside the harbor gates.
Currently the Ulsan metropolitan government is engaged in a
ham-fisted public relations scheme to whitewash the city’s
environmental image before the upcoming IWC annual meeting, the
first international convention the city has hosted.
The city of Ulsan named itself as an “Ecopolis,” an ironic title
for a city that once had to relocate residents and offer financial
compensation for environment related diseases in 1986, particularly
a degenerative disorder called “Onsan disease” that was linked to
toxins from the nearby non-ferrous industries.
Coastal contamination is high around Ulsan and concentrations of
lead and mercury are three times the legal levelm and copper is
concentrated at 47 times the legal limit.
Currently under construction is a new whale museum near the strip
of seafood restaurants that all sell whale meat. Ulsan also hosts an
annual whale festival June 18 to 21, in a bid to garner tourist
dollars. According to the local government website, the purpose of
the Ulsan Whale Festival is to “cherish the memories of regional
whale fishing in Ulsan and Jangsengpo, which was the main whale
fishing area in the past.
With the 1986 whaling moratorium came, the Ulsan economy
suffered, and citizens began relocating to other areas.

The city of Ulsan is promoting its image as an eco-friendly
city. (Photo © James Card)
When the Rainbow
Warrior docked at Ulsan, a welcoming ceremony was organized that
included brief statements from various public officials from the
Ulsan government and the local KFEM chapter head. A class of
kindergarteners arrived and presented the Greenpeace crew with
crayon sketches of whales. A large inflatable whale was staked out
on the dock as an attention-getting symbol and the ship was opened
for tours. Reporters gathered for a press conference in the hold below deck.
Amid kayaks and coils of rope, Korean journalists viewed a
presentation that indicated South Korea is second only to Japan in
numbers of whales considered as accidental by-catch.
Greenpeace research shows that the ‘J’ stock of North Pacific
minke whales, Balaenoptera acutorostrata, is in decline and that the
Western Pacific gray whale, Eschrichtius robustus, is nearing
extinction with only an estimated 100 individuals left alive, making
it the most endangered whale population in the world.
KFEM activist Yoon Mi Sook ended her speech by stating,
“Complaining that whales are depleting the fisheries is like
complaining that woodpeckers are causing deforestation.”